🇱🇻 Latvia

Late May to early September is the classic season: long, light evenings, outdoor cafés in Riga, and swimming weather on the Gulf of Riga at Jūrmala. Midsummer (Jāņi, 23–24 June) is the country's favourite festival, when many Latvians leave the cities for bonfires, songs and wreaths of oak leaves – charming if you join a celebration, but expect some businesses to close.

September brings golden forests in Gauja National Park and fewer visitors. Winter is dark and cold, yet Riga's Christmas market and snowy forests have their own appeal if you pack properly.

Latvia has a temperate climate shaped by the Baltic Sea. Summers are mild to warm and changeable, with occasional hot spells and showers. Winters are long, grey and cold; the UK government notes that temperatures can fall below -25°C, and heavy snow occasionally disrupts transport. Spring arrives late, and autumn turns wet and windy from October.

Latvia is a member of the EU and the Schengen area. Many non-EU nationals, including citizens of the UK, the USA, Canada and Australia, can visit without a visa for up to 90 days in any 180-day period, counted across all Schengen countries. Others need a Schengen visa, applied for through Latvia's embassies or the visa centres listed by the Latvian Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Your passport should generally have been issued less than ten years before you arrive and remain valid for at least three months after you plan to leave the Schengen area.

The EU's Entry/Exit System (EES) has been fully operational at Schengen external borders since 10 April 2026: on your first entry, non-EU travellers register fingerprints and a photo, and the digital record replaces passport stamps. ETIAS, the online pre-travel authorisation for visa-exempt visitors, is not yet in operation; it had been scheduled for the last quarter of 2026, but no confirmed start date has been published and the EU says it will announce it several months in advance.

Access to the zone within 2 km of the Belarus border is restricted. Confirm the current rules for your nationality with the official source before booking. Checked October 2026.

Most visitors arrive at Riga International Airport, about 10 km from the centre and the hub of the national airline airBaltic. City bus 22 links the airport with the Old Town edge and the bus station; see our Riga guide for details.

Inside the country, regional trains from Riga Central Station run to Jūrmala, Sigulda, Cēsis, Jelgava and further afield (timetables at pv.lv), while a dense network of intercity buses leaves from the Riga bus station next to the Central Market; tickets for both can be bought at stations or through the Mobilly app. International coaches connect Riga with Tallinn and Vilnius, making Latvia an easy link on a Baltic route that could continue to Estonia or Poland.

Driving is straightforward on main roads, but carry the vehicle's original registration documents, and in Riga use established taxi firms or ride-hailing apps rather than hailing unmarked cars.

Latvia is generally cheaper than the Nordic countries and Western Europe, though Riga's Old Town is pricier than the rest of the city. Public transport is good value: a 90-minute ticket on Riga's buses, trams and trolleybuses costs €1.50 when bought in advance (fare checked October 2026). Budget travellers can manage on hostels, market lunches and buses; mid-range travellers will find comfortable boutique hotels and good restaurants at moderate prices, particularly outside peak summer weekends.

Latvians tend to be reserved with strangers but warm once the ice breaks; a handshake and a simple Labdien go a long way. Flowers are a common gift – give them in odd numbers, as even numbers are associated with funerals. Remove your shoes when entering a private home unless told otherwise.

Language is a sensitive topic: Latvian is the sole official language, and while Russian is widely spoken in Riga, opening in Latvian or English is the more tactful choice. Song and folk tradition run deep – the nationwide Song and Dance Celebration is recognised by UNESCO as intangible heritage.

Latvian cooking is hearty and seasonal: dark rye bread, grey peas with bacon, smoked fish from the coast, pīrāgi (bacon-filled buns) and the vivid pink cold beetroot soup aukstā zupa in summer. In late summer and autumn, wild mushrooms and berries fill the markets. Try Riga Black Balsam, a bitter herbal liqueur, in small doses.

The best place to start is Riga's Central Market, housed in former Zeppelin hangars – our Riga guide covers where to eat around it.

Latvia is a generally safe destination. The main issues in Riga are pickpocketing in the Old Town, the Central Market and transport hubs, occasional drink spiking, and inflated bills in some bars – check prices before ordering, keep your card in sight and never leave drinks unattended. Drinking alcohol in public places is not allowed.

Areas close to the Belarus border are restricted, and the UK government advises against travel to Belarus. In winter, prepare for ice and very low temperatures. Read your own government's travel advice before you go.