Bruges

In the Middle Ages, Bruges was one of the great trading cities of northern Europe, linked to the sea and rich on cloth and commerce. When its waterway silted up and trade moved elsewhere, the city slipped into a long sleep that preserved its streets almost intact. Today the Historic Centre of Brugge is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, inscribed in 2000 as an outstanding example of a medieval settlement and the cradle of the Flemish Primitives, painters such as Jan van Eyck and Hans Memling.

The oval old town, ringed by canals and green ramparts, is compact and almost entirely walkable. Bruges lies in Dutch-speaking Flanders in north-west Belgium, a short distance from the North Sea coast.

Few places let you walk so completely into the past. Bruges combines world-class art, Gothic churches and almshouses with an intimate scale that makes simply wandering a pleasure. It is a natural choice for couples, for travellers who love architecture and painting, and for anyone combining Belgium's cities by train with Brussels.

• Markt and the Belfry. The great market square is framed by guild houses and the Belfry, part of the UNESCO-listed Belfries of Belgium and France; climbing its narrow stairs rewards you with views over the rooftops.
• The Burg and the Basilica of the Holy Blood. A short walk from the Markt, this square holds the Gothic town hall and a two-level basilica that houses a revered relic.
• Canal boat trip. Boat tours glide past gardens and gables, revealing corners you cannot reach on foot; Huidenvettersplein is a central departure point.
• Groeninge Museum. The municipal fine-arts museum holds outstanding works by the Flemish Primitives, including Jan van Eyck.
• Sint-Janshospitaal. One of Europe's oldest surviving hospital buildings, now a museum showing paintings by Hans Memling.
• Church of Our Lady. Its brick tower dominates the skyline, and inside is Michelangelo's marble Madonna and Child.
• Begijnhof and Minnewater. The whitewashed béguinage, part of the UNESCO-listed Flemish Béguinages, is a haven of calm beside the Minnewater lake.
• Ramparts and windmills. Walk or cycle the green ring around the old town, past windmills and medieval gates such as the Ezelpoort, dating from 1297.

April to June and September to October are ideal: pleasant walking weather and slightly lighter crowds. July and August are busiest, and the centre fills with day visitors from late morning until late afternoon; summer weekends are the most crowded of all.

December brings Christmas markets and lights, and quiet winter weekdays have their own charm, misty canals included. Whatever the season, the best time of day is early morning or evening, when the streets belong to residents and overnight guests.

Staying inside the canal ring is the whole point: the old town is small, so almost anywhere within it is convenient. The streets around Sint-Anna and Langerei in the north-east are quieter and residential, while the area near the Markt and the Burg puts you in the thick of things.

Near the Begijnhof and Minnewater you are close to the station and to the calmest corners of the city. Choices range from canal-side boutique hotels to guesthouses in historic homes; book well ahead for summer and December weekends.

Markt and Burg: the monumental heart, with the Belfry, town hall and the busiest shopping streets.

Sint-Anna: a peaceful, residential quarter in the east with almshouses, windmills and local cafés.

Langerei and Spiegelrei: canal-side streets in the north, once home to foreign merchants, now calm and elegant.

Begijnhof and Minnewater: the southern edge of the old town, green and quiet, close to the station.

Sint-Gillis: a lived-in neighbourhood of brick houses north of the centre, away from the crowds.

Bruges is on the main Belgian rail network, with frequent direct trains from Brussels and Ghent, and onward to the coast. The station is just outside the old town, and the tourist office there, along with a second one on the Markt, can help with maps and information. Travellers flying into Brussels Airport can take a train into Brussels or change along the way.

Once there, walk: the historic centre is compact and much of it is pedestrian-friendly. City buses link the station and the centre, and cycling is a pleasure on the ramparts and quieter streets. Driving into the old town is not recommended; use the car parks at its edge.

Bruges' kitchens reflect the sea and the Flemish countryside. Look for mussels in season, North Sea fish, Flemish beef stew made with beer and, of course, fries. Waffles and chocolate shops are everywhere, from traditional pralines to inventive small makers.

Beer lovers will find atmospheric cafés with long lists of Belgian brews, and the city has its own brewing tradition. The restaurants directly on the Markt are expensive for what they offer; a few streets away, quieter brasseries serve better food at fairer prices.

Bruges is a good base for exploring Flanders. Cycle along the tree-lined canal to Damme, a tiny historic town among polders. Ghent, with its medieval core and lively student life, is a short train ride away, and the Belgian North Sea coast, with resorts such as Ostend and Knokke, is close by. The First World War sites around Ypres are a moving trip for history-minded travellers. Brussels is easily reached by direct train. See our Belgium guide for more.

Bruges is a mid-to-high-cost destination, and accommodation is pricier on summer and December weekends. Weekday stays and the shoulder seasons offer better value. Eating on the main squares costs a premium; set lunch menus and side-street brasseries are more reasonable, and a cone of fries makes a cheap snack.

Many of the city's pleasures cost nothing: walking the canals, the Begijnhof garden, the ramparts and the squares at dusk. If you plan to visit several of the city's museums, check the combined tickets offered by Musea Brugge.

Stay the night. The difference between noon and 9 pm in Bruges is striking; an overnight stay lets you enjoy the city when it is quiet.

Start early. Climb the Belfry or take a boat at opening time to avoid the queues.

Watch for cyclists. Bikes are everywhere and move quickly over the cobbles.

Speak a little Dutch. Bruges is in Flanders: a goeiedag and dank u wel are appreciated, and English is widely spoken.

Check museum days. Some museums close one day a week, so confirm opening times before you plan your day.