Kotor

Kotor's old town is a tight triangle of squares, churches and palaces squeezed between the water and the steep slopes of Mount Lovćen. For centuries it was a trading port and, under Venetian rule, a stronghold; its fortifications climb the cliff to the fortress of San Giovanni. The town lies at the heart of the Natural and Culturo-Historical Region of Kotor, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1979, and its defences are also part of the Venetian Works of Defence listed in 2017.

The setting is the real star: two linked inner bays ringed by mountains rising to nearly 1,500 metres, with small waterside villages such as Perast and Dobrota strung along the shore. Kotor is one of the highlights of Montenegro and a natural base for exploring the bay.

Kotor rewards both wanderers and walkers. You can lose yourself in the lanes of a medieval town, climb its walls for one of the great views of the Mediterranean, take a boat across the bay to island churches and drive into the mountains for smoked ham and cheese – all within a few kilometres.

• Old Town (Stari Grad). Enter through the Sea Gate and wander the paved squares, churches and palaces; the maze of lanes is best explored early in the morning or in the evening.
• Cathedral of St Tryphon. The Romanesque cathedral, dating from the 12th century, is the symbol of the town, with its twin towers and frescoes inside.
• City walls and San Giovanni fortress. A steep climb on stone steps past the little Church of Our Lady of Remedy leads to the fortress, with views over the rooftops and the bay; go early or late to avoid the heat, and check the ticket arrangements at the official entrance.
• Maritime Museum. Set in a baroque palace, it tells the story of the bay's seafaring families and its navy.
• Ladder of Kotor. An old mule track of hairpin bends climbing from the town towards the Lovćen plateau, for hikers wanting a quieter route with superb views.
• Perast and Our Lady of the Rocks. The baroque village of Perast, a short ride along the bay, faces two islets; boats run out to Our Lady of the Rocks, a church on an artificial island.
• A boat trip on the bay. Seeing the mountains rise straight from the water is unforgettable; choose a licensed operator and calm weather.

May–June and September–October are ideal: warm, bright and less crowded than midsummer, when heat and cruise-ship passengers can make the old town very busy. Winter is mild but much rainier, and some restaurants close, though the town is atmospheric and quiet. Check the cruise schedule before you plan a day in the old town.

Staying inside the old town is atmospheric but can be noisy and involves carrying luggage over stone paving. Dobrota and Muo, along the water on either side of the town, offer guesthouses and apartments with bay views and swimming platforms within walking distance. For more peace, quiet villages such as Prčanj and Perast work well if you have a car or don't mind local buses.

Stari Grad (Old Town): the walled heart, with squares, churches, museums and cafés.

Dobrota: a long waterside village north of the old town, lined with old captains' houses and swimming spots.

Muo: a quiet fishing village across the water, with seafood restaurants and fine views back to the walls.

Škaljari: the residential area south of the old town, near the bus station and supermarkets, with more affordable accommodation.

The nearest airport is Tivat, a short drive away; Podgorica airport and Dubrovnik airport in Croatia are other options, the latter involving a border crossing into the Schengen area, where the EU's Entry/Exit System applies.

Kotor's bus station lies just south of the old town, with services along the coast to Budva and Herceg Novi and inland to Podgorica and other towns in Montenegro. Local buses and taxis run around the bay; use licensed taxis and agree the fare first. The old town itself is pedestrian only, and parking nearby is limited in summer.

Kotor's restaurants make the most of the sea: grilled fish, mussels na buzaru with garlic, wine and breadcrumbs, and black cuttlefish risotto. From the mountains come Njeguški pršut and cheese, best tasted in the village of Njeguši itself. Wash it down with a glass of red Vranac. The old town has plenty of terraces, but some of the best-value meals are along the shore in Dobrota and Muo.

Perast and the islet church of Our Lady of the Rocks are the classic half-day outing. Drive the serpentine road up to Lovćen National Park for the mausoleum of Petar II Petrović-Njegoš and a panorama over much of the country, stopping in Njeguši for ham and cheese.

Along the coast, Budva has a compact walled old town and busy beaches, and Tivat offers a marina promenade. Across the border, Dubrovnik makes a long day trip – allow for border queues in summer. Our Montenegro guide covers the mountains of Durmitor and Lake Skadar.

Kotor is one of the pricier places in Montenegro, especially for accommodation inside the walls in July and August. Staying in Dobrota or Škaljari, eating away from the main squares and travelling by bus all keep costs down. The currency is the euro; cards are widely accepted, but keep cash for buses, small cafés and boat trips. A small tourist tax is usually added to accommodation bills.

Beat the cruise crowds. Explore the old town early or late in the day, when cruise passengers are back on board.

Climb in the cool. The walls have little shade; take water, sun protection and good shoes.

Register your stay. Visitors must be registered within 24 hours; hotels do this, but check with private hosts.

Cover up. Put on a shirt when leaving the beach, especially in the old town and churches.

Stay on marked paths. On the Ladder of Kotor and in Lovćen, keep to waymarked trails and tell someone your plans.